Staying at the most primitive hotel in Spain

By Richard Hartley of Spanish Highs Mountain Guides on a stay with us in May 2010

A Morning Walk near Cerro Bonales

Last weekend we were lucky enough to have been invited to stay at the Sierra Morena Mountain Refuge in the Sierra Tentudia north of Seville. This article describes our visit to this beautiful and unknown region of Andalucia and the efforts the refuge is making to ensure it is at one with nature and the environment. Our only previous visit in November 2008, came as a bit of a shock. Javier Aguirrebengoa, a friend from Seville had invited us to see the cortijo he had recently purchased. In reality, it was a run down goat shed, dominated by spiders, rats and mice. At the time he explained his vision to make it into a wildlife and nature refuge. Now one and a half years later we were returning for a second look.
About an hours drive north of Seville lies the town of Monesterio, just in the province of Extremadura. We swapped the quiet autovia for country tracks and headed west to our meeting point with Javier at the pleasant town of Cabeza la Vaca. From here it was dirt tracks all the way. When guests start arriving at the refuge in June 2010, Javier wants them all to make the 1.5hr walk from the town of Arroyomolinos de Leon, accompanied by mules carrying any baggage. We had the luxury of an extremely bumpy switchback track that led eventually to the outskirts of the refuge.
What a change! The dark dilapidated building we remembered had gone and been replaced by a lovely stone building. It's a stunning location. The refuge sits on a small plateau in it's own valley. It is surrounded by hillsides filled with oak, olive and innumerable other types. All is greens and browns more reminiscent of England than Andalucia. Fields of wild flowers. Hard to believe that we were only 2hrs north of Seville, probably the driest and hottest region of Spain!
We were welcomed by Javier, his wife Sandra and their three children. The refuge has space for 12 persons and is pleasant and airy. But you wont find luxurious comforts here though. No Internet WiFi or mobile phone access! The use of the electric generator lights is discouraged and guests sit by the light of candles in front of the extremely efficient roaring fire. Cooking is simple fare. Bread, cheese, tortilla, chorizo and ham, washed down by local red wines. Sat in front of the blazing fire, it makes for a cosy and satisfying atmosphere.

Javier's vision is to go "back to basics". He talked to us about the system of "Dehesa", the old ways of working the land and being at one with nature and the environment. He is knowledgeable and passionate about this and fully expects to live his dream. The refuge has been constructed with local building materials found on his land. Even some of the small seats and utensil holders have been constructed with cork from the oak trees (Quercus suber commonly called the Cork Oak).
The bedrooms are simple and clean. The warmth retained in the refuge walls, combined with the absolute silence make for the sweetest of dreams!

The next morning was fresh and clear. A mist hung over the valleys to the south. The morning sun lightened the tops of the oak trees on the hillside to the south. This morning we had a walk towards the Cerro de Bonales, at 1059m, the highest point in the Huelva province. Old lanes and tracks wind between fields and hillsides.
This is no Sierra Nevada. There are no rugged cliffs and dramatic lofty mountain peaks. But, it has a quality all of it's own. It is similar to maybe the Peak District or the Yorkshire Dales. Rolling hills and vales.
The bird life is incredible. Teeming with variety. I'm no expert, but even I recognised Bee Eaters, Griffon Vultures, Woodchat Shrikes, Cookoos, Woodpeckers and Golden Orioles. Javier has his own "Huerta" or allotment, as we say. It sits below the refuge next to the infant Rio Ardila. The irrigation system used is so different from the pipe fed variety we use in the Alpujarras. It's all below ground, watered automatically from the river. He intends to build on the knowledge of his neighbours, old "camposinos", who teach him the ways of the past.
After an simple, but excellent lunch we set back on the long journey home. There is much to learn here. Much of interest. To those who are interested in nature, the environment, country walking, and the old ways, I would recommend a visit. Javier is extremely willing to answer questions and talk about his project. Javier reckons that the refuge is the most primitive hotel in Spain! He may just be right? Thanks to him and his lovely wife, Sandra for their hospitality during our visit. We shall return!