With numbers definitely down this year on our local patch around the village of Lanjaron, Bee-eaters were a “must-see” for our field-trip to Sierra de Aracena y Picos de Aroche. Kiersten was sure she had located a possible nest-site here last year, and the search for a breeding colony was one of my priorities for the visit. We heard the familiar “pruh…pruh” calls almost as soon as we arrived, which was a promising start, but with last year’s site looking overgrown and unused we clearly had some work to do…

Elegant and exquisitely colourful, the Bee-eater Merops apiaster is one of Europe’s most exotic looking summer visitors. With the others gone I was left to for possible locations alone – and I soon found a small flock feeding only a short distance from the house. With a good view their blue-green chests, rich, chestnut backs and caps and bright yellow throats are unmistakable, and with long, pointed black bills and the black band running through the eye they’re a beautiful sight.

The sunny, open meadows and stands of trees around the valley suited them perfectly, and they swooped and glided over the fields, returning to the branches of a favourite dead tree before heading off on another foray. Bee-eaters take a variety of insects – including, naturally enough, a good number of bees – hawking them in mid-air, and I could actually hear the tapping as they dispatched larger prey and removed the stings on their perches before swallowing.  Superb stuff!

I still hoped to find a nest-site of course, and I finally had the clue I had been hoping for. An adult bird swooped low over a field as I passed, and landed on a sandy bank…and promptly disappeared. At last! Sure enough, a neat, round entrance gave the location of the tunnel, and I sat down to watch.

The Bee-eater often breeds in colonies, but it was just a single nest that I found on this occasion. They excavate tunnels to a depth of a metre or more: deep enough to maintain an ambient temperature for the nestlings that protects them from the excesses of the hot Mediterranean summer. Wind around the nest-site and the “piston” effect of parents entering the tunnel actually assist with providing fresh air to the nest chamber, and although external conditions may vary widely the parents provide a remarkably stable “microenvironment” for their youngsters.

The wait was worth it. I saw both adults arrive with food for their brood, and finally got the view I had hoped for. A juvenile Bee-eater, listening out for the return of its parents…and clearly not quite ready for the rigours of life outside the safety of its burrow! Terrific birdwatching, and an encounter I had hoped to enjoy since my arrival in Spain.

The arrival of of a friend for the last day I was here – many thanks to Marianne for some of the habitat shots we’ve used in our reports – had us quietly approaching the dead tree once more. With Woodlark Lullula arborea bursting from cover at our feet as we passed we settled down and got nice views of the parents, before spending more time at the nest-site where we once again saw the juvenile: its bright black and yellow face staring out from the bank was a highlight of the trip and it’s great to have some shots for you today!

A wonderful way to end my time here, and the birdwatchalpujarras team will certainly be returning to this spectacular region in the future. With the summer far from over we’ll continue to report on all our birdwatching news so please, as ever, keep checking our reports…and for details on how to join us for birdwatching trips and holidays down here in southern Spain, simply click on the link!

The hills of Sierra de Aracena y Picos de Aroche have been my temporary home for a couple of days now, and the patchwork of mixed oak woodland and sunny, open meadows have brought some great birdwatching. Today we’ll take a look at some of the birds of prey of the region…and where better to start than with one of southern Spain’s most spectacular species, the Griffon Vulture.

Griffon Vulture

The Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus is a truly immense bird. With a wingspan over over two and a half metres they’re noticeably larger than most eagle species, and watching them soaring over the hilltops around the refuge has  been a highlight of the trip so far.

Griffon Vulture

Elsewhere in Europe numbers have declined but they remain reasonably common in Spain and Portugal. They have responded well to a reversal in the regulations controlling the disposal of livestock carcasses, which has once more allowed farmers to leave this critical source of food out for vultures to scavenge.

Griffon Vulture

Common Buzzards Buteo buteo and Short-toed Eagles Circaetus gallicus have also shown well, patrolling the valley even through the hottest hours of the day…close enough to get the IDs, but frustrating my attempts at photography! Thankfully a pale-form Booted Eagle Aquila pennata proved rather more forthcoming, and there are some interesting points to look out for in the images shown here.

Pale form Booted Eagle

With its bright white plumage and the contrasting black band along the back of the wing, this colour variant is often one of the easier raptors to identify. However, note also the thin, translucent trailing edge to both the wings and the tail, and the pale patch on the inner primaries, giving the wing a characteristically notched appearance – helpful details when dealing with the trickier darker form of this species.

Pale form Booted Eagle

Last but by no means least today, our first ever images of a bird of prey that has made a notable recovery back in the UK in recent years. The Red Kite Milvus milvus is still a fairly common but declining species in Extremedura…the 300 or so breeding pairs are heavily outnumbered by the closely related Black Kite, Milvus migrans.

Red Kite

Sadly the bird is now absent as a breeding species from most of Andalucia: of the 25 or so pairs recorded in recent years almost all are found in Donana. Regional numbers increase hugely in winter as many arrive from northern Europe, with maybe 10,000 wintering in Extremedura alone, but again this seasonal influx has also decreased. Fanastic to have this raptor on the list for the summer then, and the views I had were typical – this particular individual was scavenging at a service station!

Red Kite

The oppurtunity to go birdwatching in a new, unspoilt area has been a wonderful experience, and we hope very much to be offering excursions here soon. We’ll keep reporting on all our birdwatching news as the summer rolls on so please keep checking our posts…and for information on how to join us for birdwatching trips and holidays down here in southern Spain, simply click on the link for more details!

I’ve been looking forward to this for some time. Birdwatchalpujarras are heading west to explore Sierra de Aracena y Picos de Aroche, a hilly, forested region in the Sierra de Morena range north of Seville. A wonderful opportunity to take a closer look at the Cork Oak habitat on the Extremeduran border…and a terrific chance to check out the birdwatching in a beautiful new location!

Kiersten and Richard have travelled the route before, but for me the journey was a new one and we were soon seeing species I’d yet to encounter in Spain. Tall buildings and pylons along the way were crowned with the immense nests of White Storks, and with their striking black and white plumage and two metre wingspan the birds were an unforgettable sight.

Soaring raptors proved difficult to identify from the car, but the Griffon Vultures were unmistakable as the motorway took us across the arid, flat southern plains: the stifling heat providing the updrafts that these magnificent use so masterfully. Later, as we left the urban sprawl of Seville behind we passed ordered, manicured hillsides of oak and fig trees – providing acorns and rich fruit for the famous local black pigs – and Red Kites scavenged along the roadside, skilfully snatching roadkill in the traffic with twisting, swoops and dives. Superb!

Soon we left the main road and a winding track took us to our accommodation, a mountain refuge restored and run by our friend Javier. The gentle, rolling hillsides were a welcome change from the harsher peaks of the Sierra Nevada and the mixed oak woodland and patches of bracken were a surprising reminder of home.

Our first walk too brought many species that would be familiar to birdwatchers in the UK. Great Tits, Blue Tits, Goldfinch and skittish Blackbirds all showed well, and the usual hirundines and swifts swirled overhead. We quickly screeching, noisy Jays to the evening’s list…and we had good views of Nuthatch in no time at all. It was there the similarities with a British woodland ended however. Short-toed Treecreepers flitted up the treetrunks, and small flocks of Spotless Starlings foraged in the fields.

Families of Woodchat Shrikes eyed us suspiciously as we passed – note the juvenile shown here begging for food from a decidedly disinterested parent – and good numbers of Golden Oriole flashed between the trees. We soon heard the unmistakable calls of Bee Eaters on the slopes above the house – hopefully they were nesting nearby! – and huge Griffon Vultures patrolled the hilltops on the skyline. Nice to catch a glimpse of a Woodlark, breaking cover from the ground with distinctive rounded wings and noticeably short tail.

Not bad for a couple of hours…and with me staying on for a few days, it was a promising start. I’m certainly looking forward to exploring the area further and seeing what else this picturesque place has to offer!

Parque Natural Sierra de Aracena y Picos de Aroche en Huelva.
• Parque Natural Sierra Norte de Sevilla.
• Parque Natural Sierra de Hornachuelos en Córdoba.
• Parque Natural Sierra de Cardeña y Montoro en Córdoba.
• Parque Natural Sierra de Andújar en Jaén.
• Parque Natural de Despeñaperros en Jaén.

The first stage starts in Barranco (Portugal) and goes during 13 km to Encinasola (Huelva), within Sierra de Aracena Natural Park.
During this first stage we penetrate the Múrtigas river Valley, encountering rockroses, riverside forest, and olive groves. We will identify the frontier line that once played an important role as a contraband passing route.

It is an easy but beautiful 13 km route that you can walk in 4 hours. We shall ensure that you enjoy it to the full with friends or family. We will happily organize every single detail whether you walk, ride on mountain bike or wish to ride on horses.

Contact the refuge for more information.

I replicate the article below for the laugh! Please ….. if you are one of these sorts of people then the “Sierra Mountain Refuge Experience” is just not for you. Puerta Banus, Marbella or Torremolinos may be more your style.

The original article with photos etc can be found on pdf files here and here.

“IT is billed as the ‘most primitive hotel’ in Spain.

And with the generator packed up, the wind whistling under the door and the open fi re the only source of cooking, it must certainly come close. I had been offered a weekend to discover the charms of the so-called Sierra Morena Mountain Refuge, which sits high in the Sierra de Aracena, a few clicks from the Extremadura border. But nobody told me – an Essex girl, used to regular home comforts – that the place would be freezing and the creature comforts practically nil.

My weekend breaks are normally spent on the beach or in a comfortable city hotel, so it is fair to say that I headed off with a certain degree of trepidation. Luckily my friend Wendy – who grew up on camping holidays – was coming along for the ride. And she soon got me in the spirit for something a little different. The beautifully restored farmhouse, which sits in its own valley with some of the most amazing views in Andalucia, certainly looked the part. Built with sustainable materials, its wooden furniture and fire place certainly gave off a welcoming feel.
But, while I was looking forward to a hot cup of tea – or something stronger – our host, owner Javier Aguirrebengoa decided we needed a proper tour of the grounds.

So we were soon being taken on a forced march around the soggy nearby woodland, getting an in-depth lecture on this plant and that plant, etc, etc. Despite the light starting to dim, our host’s enthusiasm was unrelenting, as he pulled up nearly every plant we passed to tell us about it’s history and why it was vital to the landscape. I couldn’t help thinking this wasn’t the most sustainable way of caring for the land but I trusted he knew what he was doing.

Once I had turned almost blue and could no longer feel my feet, I politely told Javier I was heading back to marinade the meat I had picked up at Mercadona the night before.It was nearing 8pm and I feared the combination of cold and hunger would push me over the edge. I was all set to jump in the car and head home… until I realised we had left it half an hour away up a dirt track! Thankfully Javier took the hint and when we got back to the farmhouse his friend Antonio had got a roaring fire going in the grate. It warmed me cockles, as they say, and I was soon relaxing in front of the fi re, while Wendy chopped an onion using a head torch – the generator had packed up meaning there were no lights.

Once fed and less blue, I began to appreciate where I was and what Javier had achieved in this isolated corner of Huelva province. The former estate agent had found the spot, by accident, three years ago, when he and his wife had been on a day out from Sevilla, where they live. Taking a hike in the little known Sierra de Tentudia they both had some kind of awakening as the  current recession had really started to bite. With he and his wife both forced out of work due to the crisis, they were both looking for a new meaning to their lives. “I started to re-evaluate what was important to me and my family,” Javier told me, over a hot cup of soup. “Seeing how people lived out here in the sticks, their traditions and how they lived off the land inspired me to start this project.” His philosophy is endearingly simple. Respect the land, learn from it and uphold ancient and sustainable rural traditions. “I don’t think we can live without certain technology, but a better understanding of our environment and old traditions means we can rely on it less,” he explains.

All revenue made from the recently set up project goes towards local agricultural projects and educating others about sustainable living. The  refuge itself has been beautifully restored. All the beds are hand-made using locally sourced wood, and all features, even down to the style of hand basin, are designed to be in keeping with the local mountain vernacular. But that’s not to say he hasn’t tried to make the refuge comfortable. And there are some creature comforts, such as a giant pull-down screen installed to watch movies.. when the generator is working of course.

There is a big library of books and films, the vast majority linked to the environment, and visitors are encouraged to learn (and practice) selfsuffi ciency during their stay. It’s no surprise that visitors are also encouraged to walk to the refuge instead of driving. But unless you had a tractor, or a robust 4×4 you wouldn’t make it anyway as roads are non-existent the whole way up. I crawled into bed early with all my clothes on, shivering and wishing I had brought some thermal underwear. I did at least sleep well until we were rudely awoken at 6.30am by Javier and Antonio having a heated discussion about solar energy.

‘Heated’ somehow seemed to be the wrong word though, and when I opened the shutters I couldn’t believe my eyes. It was completely white and we were covered in a foot of snow.It was like  Narnia and I was waiting for the White Witch to turn me into an ice statue.She never showed, so I got dressed and sat by the fi re with Javier who was so overwhelmed by the snow he couldn’t wait to get outside. I declined, prefering to dream of all inclusive holidays, and chat to Antonio who was making toast over the fire.

After ‘breakfast’ we set off to visit the caves in nearby Fuentes de Leon, where a recent discovery of Roman artefacts had made it popular.The caves themselves are nothing spectacular, but the story behind them and what they have found out about the Romans that lived there is pretty impressive. For example, they discovered that when someone died they ate them due to lack of other food!

On our way back to the refuge, Javier took us to visit a retired farmer, Francisco, who spends most of his day looking after his small herd of goats, one of which was about to give birth. He had dried chillies and tomatoes hanging from his wall and laid out a nice spread of cured pork and red wine for us. He has lived in the area his whole life and was practically self-sufficient. Javier explained how he had learnt a lot from Francisco and you could see they had built up a strong friendship through their mutual love of the area.

All in all, the refuge is a totally unique experience and Javier’s passion for the project is admirable. But I wouldn’t recommend going in winter, unless you are a die-hard ‘outdoors’ person. In the summer I imagine this place is idyllic and it would be much easier to embrace the self-sufficiency lifestyle. And with a group of friends, good food and wine, there is no doubt that this could be the ultimate holiday retreat. Either way, it is a week in the Canaries for me next winter.”

or

ONE HOUR AWAY FROM HOME

Today I was alive, isn´t it important?.

I enjoyed a very pleasant day.

I was there and you weren´t.

I can easily explain you what I saw but I could barely introduce you to what I felt.

I can not talk about it, I can only write.

Everything but the feeling is very discouraging: the price, for example, but, what happens here? nature? Price?, yes everything has a price are you are ready to pay it?.

I don´t know what the price is but I know that is not affordable; and the rest is just hunging out a cliff; you would jump, you want to do it, jump to freedom, to join the very inside of you, but at the same time you know that the answer is no, common sense is no, and again is the price, and the idea that it is not affordable.

Today I learned about myself, don´t I know everything already? Do you about yourself?

I know that I still have a boy inside me, and that is a lot of suffering. It lasts just a while, thanks God.

Adventure is very hard, but what is the meaning of adventure?, it scares me just trying to answer it. Is it all about trying new things?, is it trying “supposed to be impossible things”?, it is just a character?, it is the conquer of your peace, finally? What is it?, Why don´t you tell me?. I want you to tell me, you are so quiet, talk

My mind is full of ideas, I have the strength, but what is the price I have to pay for it.

But what if I dreamed, I dreamed that I make it happen, I get a decent price, then I need a good design, a good project and someone will say yes, and that yes is not a far away yes, it is only one hour and a half from home.